Situated on the west flank of the Black Mountains that separate it from central Bhutan's Trongsa district, Phobjikha Valley is a wide, flat glacial carving of such extraordinary beauty that for some Bhutanese, it is their favorite valley of all. Endangered black-necked cranes take winter refuge here between late October and early March, in an annual migration of hundreds of miles from China's Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau. Locals have long revered these cranes as heavenly birds and bestowers of good luck, and the marshy valley floor is abundant in a unique dwarf bamboo that the cranes favor. The Crane Festival, popular with locals and tourists alike, welcomes them back every year on November 11.
Thirteen other globally threatened bird species also find sanctuary in this quiet and remote valley, a good portion of which is officially protected area managed by Bhutan's Royal Society for the Protection of Nature (RSPN). Avifauna outnumber the 4,700 or so human residents, and Phobjikha has remained almost entirely agrarian while some other parts of Bhutan race ahead in development. Overhead transmission lines for electricity are forbidden, and calls to devote more valley land to growing its distinctively sweet potatoes have so far been thwarted.
Phobjikha is part of Wangdue Phodrang district and is 130 km (80 miles) — about a 5 hour drive — from capital city Thimphu. It's often referred to by another name, Gangtey, after Gangtey Goempa, the monastery built atop a small hill in 1613 by the grandson of Pema Lingpa, famed Bhutanese treasure revealer. The Gangtey Goempa courtyard is the site for both the Crane Festival and the annual masked dance festival, or tsechu, held annually from the 5th to 10th days of the eighth lunar month of the Bhutanese calendar. Just to the north is Kunzang Chholing, a Buddhist college (or shedra) where 300 monks study.
Gangtey's high elevation of 2,900 m (9,500 ft) has it blanketed with snow in the winter, but nature walks and treks are popular the rest of the year. One moderate 3-day trek from Gangteng Goempa to Kilkhortang Lhakhang passes through the forests of blue pine, birch, and rhododendron that surround the valley, and the 90-minute Gangtey Nature Trail walk is also popular. Tourists can see the black-necked cranes anytime over the winter from the Crane Information Centre viewing platform near the nesting grounds.
The RSPN especially welcomes tourists to stay in the homes of Phobjikha Valley villagers. This “community-based ecotourism” is an excellent way to interact with locals and give them an economic boost that aligns with habitat preservation efforts. If you would like to visit Phobjikha with a homestay, add this profile to your Wish List and tell your tour operator.