Chimi Lhakhang Cafeteria

Two walls of Chimi Lhakhang Cafeteria are virtually all glass, windows over the clustered village houses and terraced paddy fields sloping away below. Rising just beyond them is the famous fertility temple after which this eatery is named. The expansive view is a people pleaser and every tour guide knows about this place. Yours most likely will take your group there unless you request otherwise, either before or after visiting Chimi Lhakhang. The food is reliably good here, though — on the high end of the buffet quality spectrum — so there's little reason to object. The unlimited set menu buffet in Bhutanese and Indian styles usually includes locally-grown red rice and vegetables, a meat dish like chicken curry, a noodle dish, and options such as chili cheese or sauteed cabbage. (Dessert, coffee, and tea are included, but beer and fruit drinks are extra.) You can also pitstop for just coffee, tea, and biscuits. The cafeteria serves breakfast and dinner as well, and outdoor seating is available in the courtyard. The two large unisex bathrooms are clean, both adorned with big wooden phalluses, and a five-foot carved wooden phallus greets visitors at the cafeteria entrance. As you will already know or soon find out, that's just part of the scenery in this valley once home to the...